{"id":5942,"date":"2019-12-31T00:21:59","date_gmt":"2019-12-30T23:21:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/?p=5942"},"modified":"2019-12-31T00:35:11","modified_gmt":"2019-12-30T23:35:11","slug":"vid-en-andra-anblick-bauhaus-tyger-som-inspiration","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/sv\/vid-en-andra-anblick-bauhaus-tyger-som-inspiration\/","title":{"rendered":"Vid andra anblicken - Bauhaus tyger som inspiration"},"content":{"rendered":"

Samarbete Cloth Museum Bramsche - Universitetet i Osnabr\u00fcck\/Textildesign<\/strong>
\nSm\u00e5 och fina ligger de framf\u00f6r oss: arkivproverna fr\u00e5n Gunta St\u00f6lzl, v\u00e4vm\u00e4stare vid Bauhaus. F\u00e4sta p\u00e5 gr\u00e5 kartong i Din A4, antecknade med prydlig blyertsskrift, kompletterade med patronteckningar och indrag. Ibland flyktigt, n\u00e4stan fragmentariskt, ibland kompletterade i detalj med f\u00e4rgst\u00e4llningar och variationer. Universum och arv fr\u00e5n en v\u00e4vare med utstr\u00e5lning f\u00f6r textilv\u00e4rlden. I Groningen, strax \u00f6ver den holl\u00e4ndska gr\u00e4nsen, \u00e4r arkivet utspritt i arbetsrummet hos St\u00f6lzls dotter Monika Stadler. Tillsammans med elevassistenten Mirjam Deckers g\u00e5r Monika Stadler igenom, inventerar och f\u00f6rvarar sin mors textil- och kulturarv. Varje textilk\u00e4nnare blir h\u00e4nf\u00f6rd vid \u00e5synen av s\u00e5dana arkivprover. Associationer uppst\u00e5r till att experimentera med material och f\u00e4rg, att m\u00f6nstra och samla, att vidareutveckla och f\u00f6rfina v\u00e4var, att f\u00f6r\u00e4ndra genom att skala proportioner eller genom detaljer i v\u00e4ftsekvensen - id\u00e9er till serier, samlingar och variationer.<\/p>\n

Kerstin Schumann, museichef p\u00e5 Tuchmacher Museum Bramsche, och Annette H\u00fclsenbeck och Lucia Schwalenberg fr\u00e5n universitetet i Osnabr\u00fcck v\u00e4ljer ut l\u00e4mpliga prover f\u00f6r utst\u00e4llningen \"Vid andra anblicken - Bauhaus-tyger som inspiration\". I samarbete med institutionen f\u00f6r textildesign vid universitetet i Osnabr\u00fcck hyllar museet Bauhaus-v\u00e4verskan med denna specialutst\u00e4llning baserad p\u00e5 Gunta St\u00f6lzls provarkiv f\u00f6r att uppm\u00e4rksamma Bauhaus 100-\u00e5rsjubileum 2019.<\/p>\n

Projekt Bauhaus v\u00e4vningsverkstad i textildesign vid universitetet i Osnabr\u00fcck<\/strong>
\nStudenterna i \"Bauhaus Weaving Workshop Project\" vid universitetet i Osnabr\u00fcck utg\u00e5r fr\u00e5n utvalda prover och inspireras, omarbetar proverna, tolkar dem p\u00e5 nytt och anpassar dem till de tekniska f\u00f6ruts\u00e4ttningarna f\u00f6r jacquardv\u00e4vstolen i museet. F\u00f6rutom olika provv\u00e4vstolar fr\u00e5n avdelningen och den restaurerade h\u00e5lkortsjacquardv\u00e4vstolen med h\u00e5lkortsmaskin anv\u00e4nds den nyligen f\u00f6rv\u00e4rvade digitala handjacquardv\u00e4vstolen TC2 i v\u00e4vkursen i l\u00e4rarutbildningen i textildesign, vilket g\u00f6r det m\u00f6jligt att implementera proverna under den begr\u00e4nsade seminarietiden med 14 studenter.<\/p>\n

Medan studenterna arbetar med proverna unders\u00f6ker och reparerar de tekniska experterna Wolfgang Sternberg och Hans-Heinrich Schwalenberg kortslagningsmaskinen i Tuchmacher Museum. Den anv\u00e4nds f\u00f6r f\u00f6rsta g\u00e5ngen i museets tjugo\u00e5riga historia. F\u00f6r f\u00f6rsta g\u00e5ngen i denna utst\u00e4llning v\u00e4ver museet sina egna slagm\u00f6nster till de befintliga tre historiska kortserierna.<\/p>\n

Jacquardkort f\u00f6r utst\u00e4llningen
\nEfter en utbildning p\u00e5 kortstansmaskinen stansar museiteknikerna Antonio Torres och Volker Leismann Gunta St\u00f6lzls och Osnabr\u00fcckstudenternas m\u00f6nster i jacquardkartong under mycket koncentrerat arbete. Bild efter bild l\u00e4ser de tv\u00e5 av 400 positioner fr\u00e5n kassetten och \u00f6verf\u00f6r bindpunkterna till perforeringar. De syr ihop kortfaten p\u00e5 sybr\u00e4dan och h\u00e4nger upp fatet i jacquardprisman. Det \u00e4r ett lyckligt \u00f6gonblick f\u00f6r alla inblandade n\u00e4r de f\u00f6rsta kortk\u00f6rningarna \u00e4ntligen ger r\u00e4tt m\u00f6nsterbild, ibland beh\u00f6ver den fortfarande korrigeras, ibland fungerar den direkt.<\/p>\n

Exklusiv kollektion av yllefiltar f\u00f6r museibutiken<\/strong>
\nProverna \u00e4r utvalda f\u00f6r att matcha temat yllefiltar. Ullfiltar \u00e4r en av de traditionella produkterna fr\u00e5n de kl\u00e4destillverkare som tillsammans producerade fint ylletyg i Bramsche i \u00f6ver 400 \u00e5r. Idag forts\u00e4tter museet produktionen p\u00e5 \u00f6ver 100 \u00e5r gamla maskiner p\u00e5 den autentiska platsen och \u00e4r en del av Route of Industrial Culture.<\/p>\n

De ylletyger som utvecklats fr\u00e5n St\u00f6lzl-proverna finns tillg\u00e4ngliga som en kollektion i museibutiken exklusivt f\u00f6r \u00f6ppnandet av utst\u00e4llningen. Ett nytt sortiment f\u00f6r museet. En ny upplevelse \u00e4ven f\u00f6r bes\u00f6karna, som kan f\u00f6lja v\u00e4gen fr\u00e5n inspirationsk\u00e4llan, designen, kortslagningen till v\u00e4vningen och den f\u00e4rdiga produkten i en levande enhet. En stor del av ullgarnerna f\u00f6r produktionen tillverkas p\u00e5 museets egna maskiner, s\u00e5som kardningsmaskinen och sj\u00e4lvbindaren.<\/p>\n

The Cloth Museum: Bramsch Red till samlingen<\/strong>
\nBramsche kl\u00e4desmakarmuseum med sina historiska byggnader fr\u00e5n kl\u00e4desmakarnas skr\u00e5 \u00e4r idylliskt bel\u00e4get vid stranden av floden Hase. Framf\u00f6r allt var det tygerna som tillverkades som uniformstyger i den klara \"Bramscher Rot\" som gjorde kl\u00e4desmakargillet ber\u00f6mt. F\u00e4rg\u00e4mnet f\u00f6r den speciella r\u00f6da nyansen framst\u00e4lldes av gillets f\u00e4rgare fr\u00e5n r\u00f6tterna av krappv\u00e4xten.
\nDet \u00e4r sj\u00e4lvklart att Bramsch-r\u00f6tt spelar en roll i samarbetsprojektet mellan Tuchmacher Museum och universitetet i Osnabr\u00fcck om Gunta St\u00f6lzls arkivprover. F\u00f6rutom neutrala toner fr\u00e5n vitt till gr\u00e5tt inneh\u00e5ller studenternas urval en palett av r\u00f6da m\u00f6nster. N\u00e5gra av m\u00f6nstren kommer att v\u00e4vas p\u00e5 en r\u00f6d ullvarp p\u00e5 museets dobbymaskin f\u00f6r att komplettera museets jacquard och, efter fyllning och upph\u00f6jning, g\u00f6ras till yllefiltar.<\/p>\n

F\u00f6r studenterna \u00e4r det motiverande att ta sig an en utmanande och konkret uppgift i samband med Bauhaus 100-\u00e5rsjubileum. Och det g\u00e4ller Tuchmacher-museet, n\u00e5gra kilometer fr\u00e5n Osnabr\u00fcck, som studenterna uppskattar fr\u00e5n exkursioner och projekt. Utsikterna att f\u00f6rverkliga m\u00f6nstren p\u00e5 museets jacquardv\u00e4vstol och presentera de resulterande yllefiltarna i museibutiken \u00e4r ytterligare ett incitament. Studenterna arbetar i grupper och koncentrerar sig p\u00e5 att utveckla och f\u00f6rverkliga Gunta St\u00f6lzls arkivprover p\u00e5 de m\u00f6nster som \u00e4r tekniskt genomf\u00f6rbara p\u00e5 museets jacquardv\u00e4vstol. Dessa \u00e4r m\u00f6nster i v\u00e4ftdubbel f\u00f6r \"polkagrisar\" och ett handritat m\u00f6nster av Gunta St\u00f6lzl, samt implementeringen av museets logotyp i form av en v\u00e4vskyttel. Dessutom v\u00e4vda tyger i fl\u00e4tad twill och v\u00e5ffelv\u00e4v, som \u00e4r anpassade fr\u00e5n 14 till \u00e5tta skaft p\u00e5 grund av tr\u00e5dt\u00e4theten och antalet s\u00e4nken p\u00e5 museiv\u00e4vstolen.<\/p>\n

Verkstadsarbete p\u00e5 Bauhaus som pedagogisk grund<\/strong>
\nI detta projekt behandlar l\u00e4rarstudenterna i textildesign \u00e4mnet verkstadsarbete och estetisk utbildning inom Bauhaus pedagogik. Som en reformpedagogisk universitetsr\u00f6relse med en inverkan l\u00e5ngt utanf\u00f6r Tysklands gr\u00e4nser, st\u00e5r Bauhaus som en ledstj\u00e4rna f\u00f6r fruktbart pedagogiskt och designarbete i verkst\u00e4derna som grund f\u00f6r en sund utbildning f\u00f6r studenter.<\/p>\n

En annan del av utst\u00e4llningen p\u00e5 Tuchmacher Museum \u00e4r fr\u00e5gan om hur tyger f\u00f6r kl\u00e4der kan ha sett ut p\u00e5 Bauhaus. N\u00e4r textil- och kl\u00e4dforskaren Annette H\u00fclsenbeck gick igenom provkorten i Gunta St\u00f6lzls arkiv gjorde hon n\u00e5gra \u00f6verraskande uppt\u00e4ckter. Hon hittade illustrationer av mycket liknande tygm\u00f6nster f\u00f6r tillverkning av kl\u00e4nningar i ett nummer av Vogue fr\u00e5n 1929.<\/p>\n

Detta var utg\u00e5ngspunkten f\u00f6r utst\u00e4llningens tema \"Kl\u00e4der i Bauhaus\". Annette H\u00fclsenbecks forskning \"Vid andra anblicken\" lyfte fram texter av Bauh\u00e4usler-kvinnor om mode, tyger och kl\u00e4nningar. Samtidigt tog en grupp textilstudenter upp temat. Under ledning av textilkonstn\u00e4ren Hiltrud Sch\u00e4fer och textildesignern Corinna Boknecht utvecklade de kl\u00e4ddesigner inspirerade av Bauhaus design som pappersmodeller med en experimentell karakt\u00e4r.<\/p>\n

Deltagande studenter:<\/strong>\u00a0Canan Barcin, Julia Falke, Amelie Gieschler, Bil\u00e2l Enes G\u00f6rmez, Elena Hardeenberg, Joana van der Kolk-D\u00f6lling, Karoline Meyer-Hollje, Laura M\u00f6ller, Naina Reuter, Julia Schaller, Nesibe T\u00fcrkaslan, Derya Tuztas, Bet\u00fcl Yeyet, Duygu Yildrim. (Bauhaus verkstad f\u00f6r v\u00e4vning)
\nS\u00fcmeyye Asci, Fabienne Becker, Pauline Becking, Alexander B\u00fcsing, Milena Czeczor, Johanna Erwardt, Julia Falke, Jelke Kristin F\u00e4rber, Lena Feldkamp, Marie Fink, Tunc G\u00fcney, Elena Hardenbeg, Gesche Hillmann, Leonie Hof zum Berge, Carolin Jankowski, B\u00fcsra Karakaya, B\u00fcsra Kayatas, Marie-Theres Kempermann, Anna-Katharina Kestel, Merve Kocaoglu, Karoline Meyer-Hollje Lara Munsch, G\u00fclnaz Mutlu, Sabrina M\u00fcller, Carmen Norda, Carolin Polaczyk, Josefine Porompka, Neeske Caecilia Luise Remy, Annette Sander, Julia Schaller, Rieke Scholle, Susanne Schweigel, Lara Spannhoff, Charlotte Tellmann, Zeynep Uygur, Lisa Verheyden, Anja V\u00f6llmer, Zaklina Vojvodic, Anna Wandscher, Bet\u00fcl Yeyit, Duygan Yildirim. (Bauhaus Mode)<\/p>\n

Deltagande l\u00e4rare:\u00a0<\/strong>Dipl.Des. Lucia Schwalenberg (Bauhaus v\u00e4vverkstad), Dipl. P\u00e4d. Annette H\u00fclsenbeck och Hiltrud Sch\u00e4fer (Bauhaus mode)<\/p>\n

Foto:<\/strong> Arkivprov Gunta St\u00f6lzl i arkivet hos St\u00f6lzls dotter Monika Stadler, taget av Lucia SchwalenbergText<\/strong>: Kerstin Schumann\/Lucia Schwalenberg<\/p>\n

H\u00fclsenbeck, Annette\/Schumann, Kerstin\/Schwalenberg, Lucia\/Th\u00f6rner, Ilka
\nVid andra anblicken. Bauhaus-tyger som inspiration
\n80 sidor, m\u00e5nga illustrationer i f\u00e4rg
\nFormat 14,8 x 21 cm
\nBramsche 2019
\nISBN 978-3-89946-302-6<\/strong><\/p>\n

Video om Bauhaus-projektet<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Samarbete Tuchmacher Museum Bramsche - University of Osnabr\u00fcck\/Textiles Design Sm\u00e5 och fina ligger de framf\u00f6r oss: arkivprover fr\u00e5n Gunta St\u00f6lzl, v\u00e4vm\u00e4stare vid Bauhaus. Monterade p\u00e5 gr\u00e5 kartong i A4-format, kommenterade med sirlig blyertsskrift, kompletterade med patronteckningar och indrag. Ibland flyktigt, n\u00e4stan fragmentariskt,<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5955,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5942","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-allgemein"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nAuf den zweiten Blick - Bauhausstoffe als Inspiration - Lucia Schwalenberg<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Kooperation Tuchmacher Museum Bramsche - Universit\u00e4t Osnabr\u00fcck\/Textiles Gestalten Klein und fein liegen sie vor uns: Die Archivproben von Gunta St\u00f6lzl,\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/sv\/vid-en-andra-anblick-bauhaus-tyger-som-inspiration\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"sv_SE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Auf den zweiten Blick - 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