{"id":5942,"date":"2019-12-31T00:21:59","date_gmt":"2019-12-30T23:21:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/?p=5942"},"modified":"2019-12-31T00:35:11","modified_gmt":"2019-12-30T23:35:11","slug":"at-second-glance-bauhaus-fabrics-as-inspiration","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/en\/at-second-glance-bauhaus-fabrics-as-inspiration\/","title":{"rendered":"At second glance - Bauhaus fabrics as inspiration"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Cooperation Cloth Museum Bramsche - University of Osnabr\u00fcck\/Textile Design<\/strong><br \/>\nSmall and fine they lie before us: the archive samples of Gunta St\u00f6lzl, master weaver at the Bauhaus. Attached to gray cardboard in Din A4, annotated in neat pencil writing, supplemented by cartridge drawings and indents. Sometimes cursory, almost fragmentary, <!--more-->sometimes extensively supplemented with colorits and variations. The universe and legacy of a weaver with radiance for the textile world. In Groningen, just over the Dutch border, the archive is spread out in the workroom of St\u00f6lzl's daughter Monika Stadler. Together with student assistant Mirjam Deckers, Monika Stadler sifts through, inventories and stores her mother's textile and cultural heritage. Every textile connoisseur is captivated by the sight of such archive samples. Associations arise for experimenting with materials and colorways, for patterning and collecting, for further developing and refining weaves, for altering by scaling proportions or by details of the weft sequence - ideas for series, collections, and variations.<\/p>\n<p>Kerstin Schumann, museum director at the Tuchmacher Museum Bramsche, and Annette H\u00fclsenbeck and Lucia Schwalenberg from the University of Osnabr\u00fcck select the appropriate samples for the exhibition \"At Second Glance - Bauhaus Fabrics as Inspiration\". In cooperation with the Department of Textile Design at the University of Osnabr\u00fcck, the museum pays tribute to the Bauhaus weaver on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the Bauhaus in 2019 with this special exhibition based on Gunta St\u00f6lzl's sample archive.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Project Bauhaus Weaving Workshop in Textile Design at the University of Osnabr\u00fcck<\/strong><br \/>\nStarting from selected samples, the students in the \"Bauhaus Weaving Workshop Project\" at the University of Osnabr\u00fcck are inspired, rework the samples, reinterpret them, adapt them to the technical conditions of the Jacquard loom in the museum. In addition to various sample looms from the department and the restored punched card jacquard with card punching machine, the newly acquired TC2 digital hand jacquard loom is used in the weaving course in the Textile Design teacher training program, making it possible to implement the samples in the limited seminar time with 14 students.<\/p>\n<p>While the students work on the samples, the technical experts Wolfgang Sternberg and Hans-Heinrich Schwalenberg inspect and repair the card punching machine in the Tuchmacher Museum. It is in use for the first time in the museum's twenty-year history. For the first time in this exhibition, the museum is weaving its own beaten patterns to the existing three historical card runs.<\/p>\n<p>Jacquard cards for the exhibition<br \/>\nAfter training on the card punching machine, the museum technicians Antonio Torres and Volker Leismann punch the designs of Gunta St\u00f6lzl and the Osnabr\u00fcck students into jacquard cardboard in highly concentrated work. Shot after shot, the two read 400 positions each from the cartridge and transfer the binding points to perforations. They sew the card barrels together on the sewing board and hang the barrel in the jacquard prism. It's a happy moment for everyone involved when the first card runs finally produce the right pattern image, sometimes still needing to be corrected, sometimes working right off the bat.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Exclusive wool blanket collection for the museum store<\/strong><br \/>\nThe samples are selected to match the theme of woolen blankets. Woolen blankets are among the traditional products of the clothiers, who collectively produced fine woolen cloth in Bramsche for over 400 years. Today, the museum continues production on machines over 100 years old at the authentic site and is part of the Route of Industrial Heritage.<\/p>\n<p>The wool fabrics developed from the St\u00f6lzl samples are available as a collection in the museum store exclusively for the opening of the exhibition. A new assortment for the museum. A new experience also for visitors, who can follow the path from the source of inspiration, the design, the card beating to the weaving and the finished product in a vivid unit. Much of the wool yarn for production is made on the museum's own machines, such as the carding machine and the Selfaktor.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The Cloth Museum: Bramsch Red for the Collection<\/strong><br \/>\nThe Clothmakers' Museum Bramsche with its historic buildings of the clothmakers' guild is idyllically located on the banks of the river Hase. In particular, the cloth produced as uniform fabrics in the bright \"Bramscher Rot\" made the clothiers' guild famous. The dye for the special red hue was obtained by the guild's dyer from the roots of the madder plant.<br \/>\nIt stands to reason that Bramsch red plays a role in the collaborative project between the Tuchmacher Museum and the University of Osnabr\u00fcck on Gunta St\u00f6lzl's archive samples. In addition to neutral tones ranging from white to gray, the students' sample selection includes a palette of red designs. Some of the designs will be woven on a red wool warp on the museum's dobby machine to complement the museum's jacquard and, after fulling and raising, will be made into wool blankets.<\/p>\n<p>For the students it is motivating to deal with a challenging and concrete task for the 100th anniversary of the Bauhaus. And that for the Tuchmacher Museum, a few kilometers from Osnabr\u00fcck, which the students appreciate from excursions and projects. The prospect of realizing the designs on the museum's Jacquard loom and presenting the resulting woolen blankets in the museum store is an additional incentive. Working in groups to develop and implement Gunta St\u00f6lzl's archive samples, the students focus on those designs that are technically feasible on the museum jacquard. These are designs in weft double for \"polka dots\" and a hand-drawn design by Gunta St\u00f6lzl, as well as the implementation of the museum logo in the form of a weaving shuttle. In addition, fabrics in braided twill and waffle weave, which are adapted from 14 to eight shafts due to the thread densities and number of sinkers on the museum loom.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Workshop work at the Bauhaus as a pedagogical basis<\/strong><br \/>\nIn this project, the student teachers in textile design deal with the topic of workshop work and aesthetic education in Bauhaus pedagogy. The Bauhaus as a reform pedagogical university movement with charisma far beyond the German borders stands as a beacon for fruitful pedagogical and creative work in the workshops as a basis for a sound education of the students.<\/p>\n<p>Another component of the exhibition at the Tuchmacher Museum is the question of what fabrics for clothing might have looked like at the Bauhaus. While sifting through the pattern cards in Gunta St\u00f6lzl's archive, textile and clothing scholar Annette H\u00fclsenbeck made some surprising discoveries. She found illustrations of very similar fabric patterns for the production of dresses in a 1929 issue of Vogue.<\/p>\n<p>This was the starting point for pursuing the topic of \"Clothing at the Bauhaus\" further for the exhibition. \"At second glance,\" Annette H\u00fclsenbeck's research brought to light texts by Bauhaus women on the subject of fashion, fabrics, and dresses. In parallel, a group of textile students took up the theme. Under the guidance of textile artist Hiltrud Sch\u00e4fer and textile designer Corinna Boknecht, they developed dress designs inspired by Bauhaus design as paper models with an experimental character.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Participating students:<\/strong>\u00a0Canan Barcin, Julia Falke, Amelie Gieschler, Bil\u00e2l Enes G\u00f6rmez, Elena Hardeenberg, Joana van der Kolk-D\u00f6lling, Karoline Meyer-Hollje, Laura M\u00f6ller, Naina Reuter, Julia Schaller, Nesibe T\u00fcrkaslan, Derya Tuztas, Bet\u00fcl Yeyet, Duygu Yildrim. (Bauhaus Weaving Workshop)<br \/>\nS\u00fcmeyye Asci, Fabienne Becker, Pauline Becking, Alexander B\u00fcsing, Milena Czeczor, Johanna Erwardt, Julia Falke, Jelke Kristin F\u00e4rber, Lena Feldkamp, Marie Fink, Tunc G\u00fcney, Elena Hardenbeg, Gesche Hillmann, Leonie Hof zum Berge, Carolin Jankowski, B\u00fcsra Karakaya, B\u00fcsra Kayatas, Marie-Theres Kempermann, Anna-Katharina Kestel, Merve Kocaoglu, Karoline Meyer-Hollje Lara Munsch, G\u00fclnaz Mutlu, Sabrina M\u00fcller, Carmen Norda, Carolin Polaczyk, Josefine Porompka, Neeske Caecilia Luise Remy, Annette Sander, Julia Schaller, Rieke Scholle, Susanne Schweigel, Lara Spannhoff, Charlotte Tellmann, Zeynep Uygur, Lisa Verheyden, Anja V\u00f6llmer, Zaklina Vojvodic, Anna Wandscher, Bet\u00fcl Yeyit, Duygan Yildirim. (Bauhaus Fashion)<\/p>\n<p><strong>Participating teachers:\u00a0<\/strong>Dipl.Des. Lucia Schwalenberg (Bauhaus Weaving Workshop), Dipl. P\u00e4d. Annette H\u00fclsenbeck and Hiltrud Sch\u00e4fer (Bauhaus Fashion)<\/p>\n<p><strong>Photo:<\/strong> Archive sample Gunta St\u00f6lzl in the archive of St\u00f6lzl's daughter Monika Stadler, taken by Lucia Schwalenberg.<strong>Text<\/strong>: Kerstin Schumann\/Lucia Schwalenberg<\/p>\n<p><strong>H\u00fclsenbeck, Annette\/Schumann, Kerstin\/Schwalenberg, Lucia\/Th\u00f6rner, Ilka<br \/>\nAt second glance. Bauhaus fabrics for inspiration<br \/>\n80 pages, numerous color illustrations<br \/>\nFormat 14,8 x 21 cm<br \/>\nBramsche 2019<br \/>\nISBN 978-3-89946-302-6<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><a class=\"external-link\" title=\"External link - opens in new window\" href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=jhg8sN8ILVs\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Bauhaus project video<\/a><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5945\" src=\"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/bauhaus.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1385\" height=\"922\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/bauhaus.jpg 1385w, https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/bauhaus-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/bauhaus-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/bauhaus-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/bauhaus-660x439.jpg 660w, https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/bauhaus-200x133.jpg 200w, https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/bauhaus-392x261.jpg 392w, https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/bauhaus-600x399.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1385px) 100vw, 1385px\" \/><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Cooperation Tuchmacher Museum Bramsche - University of Osnabr\u00fcck\/Textiles Design Small and fine they lie before us: the archive samples of Gunta St\u00f6lzl, master weaver at the Bauhaus. Mounted on gray cardboard in A4 format, annotated in neat pencil writing, supplemented by cartridge drawings and indents. Sometimes fleeting, almost fragmentary,<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5955,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5942","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-allgemein"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Auf den zweiten Blick - Bauhausstoffe als Inspiration - Lucia Schwalenberg<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Kooperation Tuchmacher Museum Bramsche - Universit\u00e4t Osnabr\u00fcck\/Textiles Gestalten Klein und fein liegen sie vor uns: Die Archivproben von Gunta St\u00f6lzl,\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/en\/at-second-glance-bauhaus-fabrics-as-inspiration\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Auf den zweiten Blick - Bauhausstoffe als Inspiration - Lucia Schwalenberg\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Kooperation Tuchmacher Museum Bramsche - Universit\u00e4t Osnabr\u00fcck\/Textiles Gestalten Klein und fein liegen sie vor uns: Die Archivproben von Gunta St\u00f6lzl,\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/en\/at-second-glance-bauhaus-fabrics-as-inspiration\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Lucia Schwalenberg\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/webereiluciaschwalenberg\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/webereiluciaschwalenberg\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-12-30T23:21:59+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2019-12-30T23:35:11+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/beitragsbild-bramsche-433x650-4.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"433\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"650\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Lucia Schwalenberg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@luciaweberei\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@luciaweberei\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Lucia Schwalenberg\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"7 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/auf-den-zweiten-blick-bauhausstoffe-als-inspiration\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/auf-den-zweiten-blick-bauhausstoffe-als-inspiration\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Lucia Schwalenberg\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/luciaschwalenberg.de\/#\/schema\/person\/8b25331a7277074af9aba4e01fb5f9e3\"},\"headline\":\"Auf den zweiten Blick &#8211; 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